Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
